For about ten years, peptides have steadily gained popularity in skin care products. Many companies proudly feature the ingredient on their label for products whether sold by physicians, licensed estheticians, department stores or drugstores. Yes, peptides are gaining in popularity and people are seeing results from using products containing peptides but are they a true panacea or just the latest, greatest fad in skin care products?
Peptides are biologically active compounds that closely resemble proteins – both are chains of amino acids. Peptides have fewer amino acids and can be further classified according to the length of the chain of amino acids. While there are probably thousands of naturally occuring peptides, to date, only several hundred have been characterized. Peptides may reduce inflammation, enhance antioxidant defense mechanisms, regulate bodily functions and even offer analgesic properties. In cosmeceutical skin care products, three types of peptides are used:
- Signal peptides that encourage fibroblasts to increase production of collagen while decreasing the breakdown of existing collagen;
- Neurotransmitter peptides that limit muscle contraction and, thus are said to mimic the effects of Botox and
- Carrier peptides that stabilize and deliver trace elements necessary for wound healing and enzymatic processes.
Approximately 25 peptides are routinely used in skin care products due to various limitations, including high cost and absorption abilities. Peptides will not hold up in water-based product. They require a fatty acid component to improve absorption into the skin. Four of the most popular are:
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 which is commercially sold as Matrixyl and shows improvements in wrinkle appearance quicker than retinol and without causing irritation;
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 which is a neurotransmitter peptide that inhibits muscle contraction but is not as potent as Botox;
GHK-CU is a copper peptide and has been shown to aid in wound-healing and reducing fine lines and the depth of wrinkles;
Matrixyl 3000 is a combination of palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 that decreases wrinkle density, volume and depth.
To read more about peptides, check Wikipedia, CLICK HERE, Peptide Guide, CLICK HERE, or Skin Inc. magazine, CLICK HERE.
Dr. Seth Yellin of Marietta Facial Plastic Surgery & Aesthetics Center, recommends a product containing copper peptide to his CO2 laser patients. This product is CU 3 Tissue Repair. Other products that Dr. Yellin recommends containing peptides are Intensive Eye Repair by Marietta Derm Essentials and Rebox II by Revision. All of these products can be purchased at Dr. Yellin’s office located at 111 Marble Mill Road, Marietta, GA 30060. Telephone 770-425-7575
You may view Dr. Yellin’s website, CLICK HERE or follow them on Facebook, CLICK HERE. Dr. Yellin is a facial plastic surgeon specializing in surgical and non-surgical procedures for the face and neck. Contact his office for more information or to schedule an appointment. 770-425-7575
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